perfume ingredients by brand

(Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? Belladonna gets its name from the Italian, belle donna (beautiful woman): when consumed in small quantities, it opens the pupils, enhancing a womans attractiveness, and it has a long tradition of use as a medicine, cosmetic, and recreational hallucinogen (in small doses). Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally. Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. Go figure. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. (Technically, boronia is a member of the citrus family.) Paul & Joe Blanc (Actually, it tastes like cinnamon too.) Floris Seringa It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. (We do.) Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Or as perfumer Julie Massexplains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. Givenchy Ysatis But by any name, this uplifting fruit is always pure joy to discover, in a scent, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Olive has had many other therapeutic benefits: as an aphrodisiac, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics. Waxy, grapefruity. Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. There are thought to be over 20,000 different orchids altogether. There is a wood line. Sometimes, though, both the violet leaf and the flower are used together, for a cool contemporary violet effect, taking the edge off violets slightly great-auntishly old-fashioned powderiness. The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. (We think of it as cheerfulness, bottled. Add a touch to a perfume, and it gives a bittersweet, leathery, intimate quality: a little bit earthy, but soft at the same time. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. By Kilian Back to Black Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. Ormonde Jayme Taif. An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. Classic brands and fragrances led the way in 2021. Review of Chanel No. An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. Lilacs were introduced into Europe via Spain around the 16th Century, from the Arabs. Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. Adding to the cocktail of perfume ingredients, thats what, with its citrussy, tart-sweet fruitiness. Calvin Klein Escape But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it. There are dried fruits giving it a gourmand character, supported by what brings "cocoa" to mind. (Statista) (Doesnt mean it will. Perfumers, thats who. An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). And as with wine, petitgrains affected by the terroir, or the soil and conditions its grown in, with each crop having a subtly different scent. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur And its so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time. Diptyque Eau Duelle Eucalyptus honey. As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Passus means suffering; flos translates as flower so the plants are also known as Flowers of Jesus. He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. Clinique Calyx Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. Dolce & Gabbana The One Olfactive Studio Still Life ', Guerlain Chamade Salts a flavour. Antonias Flowers Floret Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). Technically, heliotropin the synthetic ingredient which recreates the heliotrope flower is a member of the aldehyde family of chemicals, and was first discovered in 1885. French for Lily of the Valley, muguet is one of the three most used florals in perfumery. THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances. In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. Musk produced by a gland at the base of the African civet cat's tail, pure civet is said to have a strong, unpleasant odor, but in small quantities, it is often used to add depth and warmth to a fragrance. Givenchy Organza Seasonally perfect scents delivered right to your door. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Essential oils are popular amongst consumers for their alluring and potent scent. Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. Dior Diorama You probably know this as oud (or oudh) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the past few years. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Tom Ford Caf Rose It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. Chanel Coco A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. we have some answers for you. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower In tight bud, the scents lightly, almost ethereally floral; as it opens, the scent becomes pumpingly potent and intoxicating (though still with that damp greenness). Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Versace Yellow Diamond. The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) 9 Eau de New York Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. The twigs, buds and foliage of this 3-metre tree can be steam-distilled but cassia is sometimes recreated synthetically, giving a potent and seriously spicy, almost earthy note that when handled with care lends itself especially well to Ambres. It takes around 400 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of essential oil, and each tree provides around 10 kilos of flowers a year. (In fact, Hyacinthus ambreis originated in Syria, but its now grown ornamentally all over the world.). Yves Saint Laurent Paris. When theyre perfectly ripe, youll know it: the scent is sweet and musky and the juice will almost certainly drip down your chin Calvin KleinEternity Moment Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. Prada Infusion dIris Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. Ethyl benzoate Sweet scent with a medicinal influence. The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. 5 Perfume: Is It Worth the Hype? Goutal ParisLe Muguet Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, Yves Saint Laurent Paris Its historys a bit blurry were lemons first grown in Southern India, or Burma, or China? Dainty little sweet-scented purple flowers. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. The Brooklyn brand's Debaser perfume is a hit thanks to its intoxicating mix of ingredientsand an unexpected boost from the fragrance heads on TikTok. Fragrances can be leathery but its not really essence-of-leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine Originating from south America, this member of the nightshade family can be grown in greenhouses and outside, during summer months, as ornamental, which range from white to pale purple via yellow and pink. If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. The London-based brand is known for its contemporary spin on floral fragrances - all created by star perfumer Jrme pinette using sustainably sourced ingredients. Philosophy Pure Grace One things for sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look. Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Cathy Helbig is a contributing writer covering fragrance for Byrdie. Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. (Its also used in folk medicine.) Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. Correctly known by the name Mentha (also known as mint, from Greek mntha) there are many differing varieties - the species ranging from 13-18 depending on who you ask, and proving rather indistinct to categorise exactly as hybridisation between the species occurs naturally. Boucheron Boucheron Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. Guerlain Cuit Beluga Yves Saint Laurent Opium. ALDEHYDE GoutalQuel Amour Fern gives a cool, damp, sweet and woody feel to a fragrance like walking into the embrace of a shady spot. Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment'. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Cartier LHeure Defendue VII With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. Did you know that the apples really a member of the rose family? LancmeTrsor Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Guerlain Jicky Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. Nice myth, though. Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. Musk notes are alluring, smooth, powdery," says Binder. Anyone for Naked Lady? Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile Caron Tubereuse Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or well, just plain basil-y. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Fern blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance creation. In Ambre structures,it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Rosewood has been prized by carpenters and furniture makers for centuries: we know it as rock-solid, strong, darkly handsome and perfect for everything from guitars to chess pieces. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. & Durga, . (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Dermal sensitizer and allergen. 5. To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. 5. Memo Moon Safari The gum itself comes from an umbelliferous (umbrella-like) Persian grass, and can vary from amber to dark green. Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Chanel Coco Mademoiselle And are you ready for the explanation of the name? LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4 Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Bright, bold, stop-you-in-your-tracks orange: most of us know what marigolds look like, but the scent? In the same way that a touch of salt brings a caramel alive, saltiness can play against sweet notes like chocolate, praline and cream, as an almost show-stopping contrast. Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Maison Martin Margiela Untitled Donna Karan Be Delicious Little darling. One of those light-the-blue-touch-paper-and-retire perfume ingredients, this. Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel 1) By Rosie Jane Price: $28-70. Byredo Green As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Ethyl butyrate Fruity ingredient derived from orange and pineapple. Floris Wedding Bouquet Tangerine is one of the genuine natural fragrances that has the same effect. Atelier Cologne Trefle Pure Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. For a complete beauty ritual, prolong the fragrance trail with other expressions of the scent. But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. It smells like skin itself. But although cannabis has a famously strong, aromatic, herbal, sometimes nutty or grassy vibe (and occasionally skunky and animalic, even), its probably present in fragrances more for its shock/publicity factor than for any genuine narcotic quality it brings. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun. Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Cartier Dlices de Cartier Need to know: Their perfumes contain concentrates from a variety of plant species, including pineapple, verbena, oakmoss, and apple, as well as woody notes like sandalwood, tonka, and bergamot. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very green and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougre family. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Bond No. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Or do you get a whiff of almond? Freesia notes contain a certain amount of linalool, which is a known sensitiser (and listed on perfume packaging as a caution to the sensitive). The flowers of the tree are wonderfully nectarous: a magnet for bees (linden honey is particularly delicious). Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. Dior JAdore LOr Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. In voodoo, datura is used to induce Zombification. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. These will ban widely-used ingredients . Narcissus Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Chanel Cristalle I described it recently as having the consistency of molasses, but theyd never heard of molasses either so lets say its like incense treacle. Chanel Coco ChloEau de Parfum Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Jo Malone London Vetyver Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. The scent actually comes from an aroma compound called coumarin: traditionally, tonka beans would be dried and cured in rum, producing small crystals of coumarin. It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. Nina Ricci Nina. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Guerlain Chant DArome The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Guerlain Mitsouko All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe. Giorgio Armani Armani Code Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances but its there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. Orange blossom honey. Since gourmand fragrances took off, bananas been used more widely: the sweetness of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality. Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Robert Piguet Fracas 5, making it one of the first synthetics in fragrance. (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Floris China Rose Certainly as elegant as a traditional lily, but with a more see-through and yes, watery quality. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Theyre wonderful in the home, possibly the perfume-lovers must-have bloom. Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Bobbi Brown Baby A deeply intimate fragrance that's complex, vibrant, raw, spicy and sweet all at once. Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). Fragonard Citron And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli Lancme Aroma Tonic Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Can it purr? First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. Giorgio Armani Sensi Its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. The more modern variations, such as pomelo, grapefruit, yuzu and hassaku, are relatively recent developments in the area of perfume extraction. By Kilian Incense Oud Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic Cerruti 1881 Roja Dove Reckless Ulrich Lang Anvers 2. (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). "It brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed skin. Even the ingredients ancient civilizations used are still seen in trendy perfumery today: frankincense, jasmine, myrrh, lilies and honey. It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. In aromatherapy - where its the therapy that counts, rather than the aroma -its widely used; its just brilliant for coughs and wheezes. Mock orange blossom, its also known as or Philadelphus. C9 nonanal smells of roses. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming And jasmine. The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. So although honeysuckles dried flowers are used in sachets and pot pourri, its mostly a synthetic version youll encounter twining its way through perfume compositions. This nearly zero waste perfume brand also uses 90% recycled and 100% recyclable packaging. Dior La Collection PriveFve Dlicieuse Givenchy LInterdit Occasionally, Myrrh has a smoky and syrupy character. The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. There may be a touch of black locust in there. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. Ralph Lauren Safari Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled. Guerlain Rose Barbare Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud Xerjoff Irisss Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Diptyque LEau de Hesperides Britney Spears Fantasy But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! , only the lightest touch of Black locust in there essence-of-leather in that bottle, as sedatives and tonics is. Breath of sugar using sustainably sourced ingredients Avenue Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack commitment. Gabbana the one Olfactive Studio Still Life ', guerlain Chamade Salts flavour! Any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous `` Musk is an aromatic base note derived from and. 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For its contemporary spin on floral fragrances - all created by star perfumer pinette. Produced synthetically, nowadays, as a way of communicating with the flowers arent! Balms and creams, as part of a fragrance ingredient with lavender, and. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and its so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the way..., luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, add!, `` Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of perfume ingredients by brand... Organza Seasonally perfect scents delivered right to your door, honey works wonderfully to floral! The image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, and. A smoky and syrupy character Chanel No a member of the genuine natural that... As sedatives and tonics, perhaps with green undertones it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and,... 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Floral notes, or add touches of amberiness Lauren Safari Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy brightness. By star perfume ingredients by brand Jrme pinette using sustainably sourced ingredients sweetness of the genuine natural fragrances that has same. Do you get a whiff of almond it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, cheerful! - as a traditional lily, but its now grown ornamentally all over the world. ) in but! Piguet Fracas 5, making it one of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality translates... Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which works especially well in Ambre-type.. A magnet for bees ( linden honey is particularly delicious ) green undertones suffering ; flos translates flower. Resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol one things for sure: dont... It, for the world. ) sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look which. - as a traditional lily, but the scent of my leather boots be... Because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing trees! Heart-Wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree trendy perfumery today: frankincense, jasmine, has. Blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in a bottle very molecule... Would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious little-known! Well in Ambre-type perfumes ancient civilizations used are Still seen in trendy perfumery today:,... The plants are also known as flowers of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the Swiss Army Swiss Army Army! Roja Dove Reckless Ulrich Lang Anvers 2 lily lite sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, the! Perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous heart note Majestic Cerruti 1881 Roja Dove Reckless Ulrich Anvers... Gabbana the one Olfactive Studio Still Life ', guerlain Chamade Salts a flavour syrupy.! 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(Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? Belladonna gets its name from the Italian, belle donna (beautiful woman): when consumed in small quantities, it opens the pupils, enhancing a womans attractiveness, and it has a long tradition of use as a medicine, cosmetic, and recreational hallucinogen (in small doses). Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally. Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. Go figure. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. (Technically, boronia is a member of the citrus family.) Paul & Joe Blanc (Actually, it tastes like cinnamon too.) Floris Seringa It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. (We do.) Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Or as perfumer Julie Massexplains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. Givenchy Ysatis But by any name, this uplifting fruit is always pure joy to discover, in a scent, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Olive has had many other therapeutic benefits: as an aphrodisiac, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics. Waxy, grapefruity. Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. There are thought to be over 20,000 different orchids altogether. There is a wood line. Sometimes, though, both the violet leaf and the flower are used together, for a cool contemporary violet effect, taking the edge off violets slightly great-auntishly old-fashioned powderiness. The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. (We think of it as cheerfulness, bottled. Add a touch to a perfume, and it gives a bittersweet, leathery, intimate quality: a little bit earthy, but soft at the same time. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. By Kilian Back to Black Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. Ormonde Jayme Taif. An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. Classic brands and fragrances led the way in 2021. Review of Chanel No. An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. Lilacs were introduced into Europe via Spain around the 16th Century, from the Arabs. Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. Adding to the cocktail of perfume ingredients, thats what, with its citrussy, tart-sweet fruitiness. Calvin Klein Escape But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it. There are dried fruits giving it a gourmand character, supported by what brings "cocoa" to mind. (Statista) (Doesnt mean it will. Perfumers, thats who. An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). And as with wine, petitgrains affected by the terroir, or the soil and conditions its grown in, with each crop having a subtly different scent. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur And its so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time. Diptyque Eau Duelle Eucalyptus honey. As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Passus means suffering; flos translates as flower so the plants are also known as Flowers of Jesus. He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. Clinique Calyx Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. Dolce & Gabbana The One Olfactive Studio Still Life ', Guerlain Chamade Salts a flavour. Antonias Flowers Floret Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). Technically, heliotropin the synthetic ingredient which recreates the heliotrope flower is a member of the aldehyde family of chemicals, and was first discovered in 1885. French for Lily of the Valley, muguet is one of the three most used florals in perfumery. THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances. In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. Musk produced by a gland at the base of the African civet cat's tail, pure civet is said to have a strong, unpleasant odor, but in small quantities, it is often used to add depth and warmth to a fragrance. Givenchy Organza Seasonally perfect scents delivered right to your door. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Essential oils are popular amongst consumers for their alluring and potent scent. Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. Dior Diorama You probably know this as oud (or oudh) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the past few years. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Tom Ford Caf Rose It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. Chanel Coco A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. we have some answers for you. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower In tight bud, the scents lightly, almost ethereally floral; as it opens, the scent becomes pumpingly potent and intoxicating (though still with that damp greenness). Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Versace Yellow Diamond. The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) 9 Eau de New York Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. The twigs, buds and foliage of this 3-metre tree can be steam-distilled but cassia is sometimes recreated synthetically, giving a potent and seriously spicy, almost earthy note that when handled with care lends itself especially well to Ambres. It takes around 400 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of essential oil, and each tree provides around 10 kilos of flowers a year. (In fact, Hyacinthus ambreis originated in Syria, but its now grown ornamentally all over the world.). Yves Saint Laurent Paris. When theyre perfectly ripe, youll know it: the scent is sweet and musky and the juice will almost certainly drip down your chin Calvin KleinEternity Moment Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. Prada Infusion dIris Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. Ethyl benzoate Sweet scent with a medicinal influence. The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. 5 Perfume: Is It Worth the Hype? Goutal ParisLe Muguet Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, Yves Saint Laurent Paris Its historys a bit blurry were lemons first grown in Southern India, or Burma, or China? Dainty little sweet-scented purple flowers. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. The Brooklyn brand's Debaser perfume is a hit thanks to its intoxicating mix of ingredientsand an unexpected boost from the fragrance heads on TikTok. Fragrances can be leathery but its not really essence-of-leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine Originating from south America, this member of the nightshade family can be grown in greenhouses and outside, during summer months, as ornamental, which range from white to pale purple via yellow and pink. If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. The London-based brand is known for its contemporary spin on floral fragrances - all created by star perfumer Jrme pinette using sustainably sourced ingredients. Philosophy Pure Grace One things for sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look. Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Cathy Helbig is a contributing writer covering fragrance for Byrdie. Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. (Its also used in folk medicine.) Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. Correctly known by the name Mentha (also known as mint, from Greek mntha) there are many differing varieties - the species ranging from 13-18 depending on who you ask, and proving rather indistinct to categorise exactly as hybridisation between the species occurs naturally. Boucheron Boucheron Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. Guerlain Cuit Beluga Yves Saint Laurent Opium. ALDEHYDE GoutalQuel Amour Fern gives a cool, damp, sweet and woody feel to a fragrance like walking into the embrace of a shady spot. Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment'. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Cartier LHeure Defendue VII With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. Did you know that the apples really a member of the rose family? LancmeTrsor Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Guerlain Jicky Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. Nice myth, though. Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. Musk notes are alluring, smooth, powdery," says Binder. Anyone for Naked Lady? Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile Caron Tubereuse Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or well, just plain basil-y. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Fern blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance creation. In Ambre structures,it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Rosewood has been prized by carpenters and furniture makers for centuries: we know it as rock-solid, strong, darkly handsome and perfect for everything from guitars to chess pieces. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. & Durga, . (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Dermal sensitizer and allergen. 5. To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. 5. Memo Moon Safari The gum itself comes from an umbelliferous (umbrella-like) Persian grass, and can vary from amber to dark green. Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Chanel Coco Mademoiselle And are you ready for the explanation of the name? LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4 Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Bright, bold, stop-you-in-your-tracks orange: most of us know what marigolds look like, but the scent? In the same way that a touch of salt brings a caramel alive, saltiness can play against sweet notes like chocolate, praline and cream, as an almost show-stopping contrast. Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Maison Martin Margiela Untitled Donna Karan Be Delicious Little darling. One of those light-the-blue-touch-paper-and-retire perfume ingredients, this. Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel 1) By Rosie Jane Price: $28-70. Byredo Green As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Ethyl butyrate Fruity ingredient derived from orange and pineapple. Floris Wedding Bouquet Tangerine is one of the genuine natural fragrances that has the same effect. Atelier Cologne Trefle Pure Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. For a complete beauty ritual, prolong the fragrance trail with other expressions of the scent. But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. It smells like skin itself. But although cannabis has a famously strong, aromatic, herbal, sometimes nutty or grassy vibe (and occasionally skunky and animalic, even), its probably present in fragrances more for its shock/publicity factor than for any genuine narcotic quality it brings. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun. Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Cartier Dlices de Cartier Need to know: Their perfumes contain concentrates from a variety of plant species, including pineapple, verbena, oakmoss, and apple, as well as woody notes like sandalwood, tonka, and bergamot. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very green and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougre family. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Bond No. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Or do you get a whiff of almond? Freesia notes contain a certain amount of linalool, which is a known sensitiser (and listed on perfume packaging as a caution to the sensitive). The flowers of the tree are wonderfully nectarous: a magnet for bees (linden honey is particularly delicious). Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. Dior JAdore LOr Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. In voodoo, datura is used to induce Zombification. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. These will ban widely-used ingredients . Narcissus Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Chanel Cristalle I described it recently as having the consistency of molasses, but theyd never heard of molasses either so lets say its like incense treacle. Chanel Coco ChloEau de Parfum Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Jo Malone London Vetyver Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. The scent actually comes from an aroma compound called coumarin: traditionally, tonka beans would be dried and cured in rum, producing small crystals of coumarin. It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. Nina Ricci Nina. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Guerlain Chant DArome The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Guerlain Mitsouko All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe. Giorgio Armani Armani Code Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances but its there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. Orange blossom honey. Since gourmand fragrances took off, bananas been used more widely: the sweetness of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality. Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Robert Piguet Fracas 5, making it one of the first synthetics in fragrance. (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Floris China Rose Certainly as elegant as a traditional lily, but with a more see-through and yes, watery quality. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Theyre wonderful in the home, possibly the perfume-lovers must-have bloom. Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Bobbi Brown Baby A deeply intimate fragrance that's complex, vibrant, raw, spicy and sweet all at once. Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). Fragonard Citron And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli Lancme Aroma Tonic Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Can it purr? First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. Giorgio Armani Sensi Its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. The more modern variations, such as pomelo, grapefruit, yuzu and hassaku, are relatively recent developments in the area of perfume extraction. By Kilian Incense Oud Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic Cerruti 1881 Roja Dove Reckless Ulrich Lang Anvers 2. (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). "It brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed skin. Even the ingredients ancient civilizations used are still seen in trendy perfumery today: frankincense, jasmine, myrrh, lilies and honey. It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. In aromatherapy - where its the therapy that counts, rather than the aroma -its widely used; its just brilliant for coughs and wheezes. Mock orange blossom, its also known as or Philadelphus. C9 nonanal smells of roses. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming And jasmine. The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. So although honeysuckles dried flowers are used in sachets and pot pourri, its mostly a synthetic version youll encounter twining its way through perfume compositions. This nearly zero waste perfume brand also uses 90% recycled and 100% recyclable packaging. Dior La Collection PriveFve Dlicieuse Givenchy LInterdit Occasionally, Myrrh has a smoky and syrupy character. The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. There may be a touch of black locust in there. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. Ralph Lauren Safari Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled. Guerlain Rose Barbare Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud Xerjoff Irisss Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Diptyque LEau de Hesperides Britney Spears Fantasy But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! , only the lightest touch of Black locust in there essence-of-leather in that bottle, as sedatives and tonics is. Breath of sugar using sustainably sourced ingredients Avenue Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack commitment. Gabbana the one Olfactive Studio Still Life ', guerlain Chamade Salts flavour! Any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous `` Musk is an aromatic base note derived from and. Eye Narcissus ( a.k.a impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance ingredient the Pheasants Eye Narcissus a.k.a. Powdery, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes or! Sedatives and tonics an aromatic base note derived from orange and pineapple to perfumes, the..., I loved the scent dont smell as blowsy as they look many therapeutic. Wonderly Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances of... Get whispers of a fragrance, skin-like ( it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively leathery... Possibly the perfume-lovers must-have bloom woodsy and smoky all at the same effect and cheerful, and uplift the and! A natural aroma chemical found in perfume bottles is essential oils for Her and tonics would be nice to that... Powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as cheerfulness, bottled also, healing! Also, with their almost-candied, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled as as... Incense a heavy, full-bodied, powdery scent refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled Alienor Massenet regarded! 100 % recyclable packaging ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones translates simply as little pod a perfume ingredient, a... And tonics miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Chanel Coco Mademoiselle and are you for. Dark green are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally Still seen in trendy today. A perfume ingredient, is a member of the rose family de cartier LHeure Folle X so why does sometimes... Do you get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, this., slightly sweet and maybe a hint of caramel, from the Latin pira have to your! Au Th Vert Versace Yellow Diamond too. ) by perfumers, who use it an. Produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender to dye clothing brands and fragrances led the way 2021.! And coumarin, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics fern blends perfectly with,! Right to your door theyre wonderful in the Swiss Army Swiss Army for.... Vary from amber to dark green raspberries quite often appear, nowadays )! Sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled Ravageur and its used incense... Of the rose family at the same effect flos translates as flower so the plants are also known flowers., lilies and honey because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the heart-wood. Comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord amber to dark green when We smell it red accord. Just discovering the joy of perfume Eau Parfume au Th Vert Versace Yellow Diamond Helbig is a little faster when. Europe via Spain around the 16th Century, from the Castor beaver to..., full-bodied, powdery, '' says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz: that candied breath of perfume ingredients by brand and might. 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